Volume 19 Issue 1 A Journal Dedicated to Natural Dyes Fall 2014
 
Dyeing Local–The Neighborhood
Dyeing Local–The Neighborhood
Soumak, naturally dyed wool (detail).
Photograph by
Pamela Feldman

 

Chromatopia from Collected Color
By Heather Clark Hilliard

The ongoing nomadic studio project, Collected Color, maps my travels across the country with my husband, Ed Hilliard, and our dog Butternut. It features individually framed fabrics dyed with wild and cultivated plants that have been sustainably collected from various regions across the US. The fabric remnants from that project and others were layered and adhered into large panels which I then cut into strips to weave the six works titled Chromatopia, meaning "the color of place." These works express the intuitive and instinctual ways color and place map our lives.

Collected Color VI, Oklahoma to Michigan
Collected Color VI, Oklahoma to Michigan
Photograph Copyright by Heather Clark Hilliard

Chromatopia 2, naturally dyed fabric remnants
Chromatopia 2, naturally dyed fabric remnants
Photograph Copyright by Heather Clark Hilliard

The original concept for Collected Color was sparked by India Flint's book Eco Colour, which provides a context for nomadic dyeing and provided me with ideas for adapting a dyeing project suitable to being on the road. Before departure, I mordanted various weaves of cotton, hemp, and silk and put them into forty quart sized mason jars, which were packed in wooden boxes tightly secured to the roof of our VW camper van.

Jars from Collected Color I, Oklahoma to Maine, packed with plant materials and fabric
Jars from Collected Color I, Oklahoma to Maine, packed with plant materials and fabric
Photograph Copyright by Heather Clark Hilliard

While observing and engaging with the changing landscapes, I collect wild and cultivated plant species that are documented in natural dye books that cover vast North American terrains. These books include illustrations and Latin names to aid in identification. In addition to natural dye references we carry regional plant identification books and I often photograph the plants in their environment.

My favorite books to travel with are: North American Dye Plants, by Anne Bliss (1993. Interweave Press, Loveland, CO), Craft of the Dyer; Colour from Plants and Lichens, by Karen Leigh Casselman (1993. Dover Publications, Inc., Mineola, NY) and Navajo Native Dyes; Their Preparation and Use, by Nonabah G. Bryan and Stella Young (2002. Dover Publications, Inc., Mineola, NY).

Collected Color III, detail #43 dyed with sumac leaves wild collected in OK
Collected Color III, detail #43 dyed with sumac leaves wild collected in OK
Photograph Copyright by Heather Clark Hilliard

  Steeped, portrait of jar #131 packed with Rhus sp. flower heads from Collected Color VII  
  Steeped, portrait of jar #131 packed with Rhus sp. flower heads from Collected Color VII
 
  Photograph Copyright by Heather Clark Hilliard  

Plants for the projects are gathered from the wild as well as from my dye garden back home in Oklahoma. Each jar is filled with one plant species, a piece of mordanted fabric and local water. The date, location, species and water sources are documented. I discovered that the packed jars are a crucial part of the process in this project and they are interesting and beautiful in their own rite. Once home again, I began photographing the jars individually as "portraits". These form the photo installations Steeped which correspond with some of the Collected Color works.

Chromatopia 4, naturally dyed fabric remnants Chromatopia 5, naturally dyed fabric remnants
Chromatopia 4, naturally dyed fabric remnants
Chromatopia 5, naturally dyed fabric remnants
Photograph Copyright by Heather Clark Hilliard Photograph Copyright by Heather Clark Hilliard

Color Collection IX, various silks dyed with Hypericum, Chrysothamnus flowers and leaves, Zinnia flowers, Ageratum flowers, Mahonia leaves, Helianthus flowers, Salix leaves, Prunus peach leaves, Verbascum thaspus leaves, Tanacetum vulgare flowers, leaves, and stems
Color Collection IX, various dyed silks
Photograph Copyright by Heather Clark Hilliard


The Chromatopia works are included in Fettered–Unfettered, a solo exhibition by Hilliard at the Nona Jean Hulsey Gallery at Oklahoma City University School of Visual Arts, August 25, 2014 to October 17, 2014. You can see more work at www.heatherclarkhilliard.com